1900s Reproduction Raspberry Velvet Ball Gown was made for the 16th Annual Edwardian Ball in January 2016.
The gold synthetic lace matches the lace on the gold Edwardian ball dress cape, so the cape could
be worn with this dress. Was worn again at the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild Soiree au Moulin Rouge
in October 2016.
Bodice
Raspberry polyester velvet bodice pleated onto boned polyester blend lining has crisscross front opening that
has 8 button placket on right side and 3 hooks and eyes on the left side. Sheer lilac polyester on bodice top under
gold synthetic fabric lace. Sheer lilac polyester straps and sleeve ends. One sleeve velvet over lining and one sleeve
lace over sheer. Synthetic lilac pink articifial flowers on left side.
Pattern: Based on Grimble, Frances. "The Voice of Fashion: 79 Turn-of-the-Century Patterns with Instructions and Fashion Plates", Lavolta Press, 1998, p. 230-233. 1901 November Ball Dress
Finished measurements:
Bust: 38.5"
Waist: 30" to go over bulky skirt waist
Skirt
Raspberry polyester velvet skirt has five gores with hook and eye back closure and
hidden side back pockets. Synthetic horsehair braid was used in the hem to give it more
body and shape, so that the hem would not cling to the ankles.
I used this pattern instead of the one that went with the bodice
pattern because the gores allowed the addition of pockets and would help keep the velvet nap in one direction.
The other pattern just had darts at the waist for shaping.
If redoing this skirt, I would gather the four back gores instead
of just the back two to ease more fabric to the front. I would also line the skirt and
hem to the lining so that the hemline does not show as much.
Pattern: Waugh, Norah. "The Cut of Women's Clothes: 1600-1930", Theatre Arts Books, New York, 1969, Diagram LXIII. Evening Dress 1905-6, Central School of Art and Design, London.
Finished measurements:
Waist: 29"
Skirt length: 37.5"-40.5"
Skirt circumference: approx 101"
Petticoat
I started a white cotton muslin using the same pattern as the skirt, but did not have time to finish.
Idea would be to hem shorter, add ruffles, and do a drawstring waist.
Wore a pre-existing five gored petticoat under the skirt made of white cotton muslin gathered into a bias
drawstring with a 6" ruffle on the bottom.
Finished measurements:
Waist: 35"
Length: 33"
Circumference approx.: 188"
Corset
Wore a straight front/s-curve corset made several years before. One layer cotton coutil with metal bones and busk,
laces up back through buttonholes. The dressform does not mold into the corset like a body does. The corset creates an S curve
with the front of bust forward. Fighting against the corset by standing up straight will hurt.
Pattern: Norah Waugh's "Corsets and Crinolines" 1901 Corset
Chemise
Oh, boo! Still no Edwardian chemise so I cut the top half off of a t-shirt to wear under the corset.
Hair Clip
Raspberry polyester velvet backing adorned with bit of gold synthetic fabric lace, feather, and
pink violet artificial flowers has an alligator clip sewn to the back.
Reticule
Could totally use one for things like fan and tickets. I always think that I have a
black beaded and sequined one, but I do not.